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Posts Tagged ‘knitting charts’

While I was working on my latest sock design, I began to pay particular attention to my color change where NA(needle A) and NB (needle B) meet as I start a new round.  Normally, I make this back seam design lie in the center of NA, but this time I decided to put it at the beginning of the round.  Why?   Since these few stitches involve changing colors more often, it forms a firmer, less stretchy surface; therefore it is a great place to hide and secure any loose floats that happen to be hanging around.  By working your extra yarn across to this area, from either side, you can tuck them under and stitch them down, with no one the wiser.

Below is a photo of the area in question.

nordic rose back seam transition

You will notice that there are 5 red stitches between 2 black ones, this is the center back pattern of my Nordic Rose knee high.  These stitches are riding on NA.  NB is laying on the counter to the right, with its cord pulled across the surface of the knitting to the left.  You can see how this move frees up the stitches to lie closely together, just as if you would be working on a straight needle.   However, there is another move that is just as important, freeing the stitches at the other end of needle A to ride on the needle tip.  See photo below.

nordic rose back seam transition 2

You can see that I have pushed the stitches onto the needle tip so that they might ride smoothly on the needle itself and NOT on the cord.  With these two moves completed, I can make a smooth transition when starting my next round, eliminating any loose stitch at the beginning.

I use the same procedure when I make the transition from NA to NB in the middle of the chart.

Give it a try!

Happy knitting!

KT

 

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While completing the heel section of my husband’s new pair of boot socks, I played around with different needle arrangements that would take the strain off the short row closures.  What I settled on was the following method.

First the set-up.

I use one 47 inch circle needle to make all my socks.  I always label the top of the sock as riding on NA( needle A), and the heel or bottom of my sock, as NB(needle B).

When I am ready to make the heel, I now pull out a loop of my needle cord in the center of the top of my sock(section A).  I do the same for the heel section B.

repositioning needles

You can see the arrangement above.  As I was working a wedge heel,(or Sweet Tomato heel) I marked the beginning of my short row turns with a marker.  In the picture above I have completed one wedge and it is hardly visible.

This arrangement of needles definitely takes the strain off of the yarn bars between the short rows turns, and makes the closing round much easier to accomplish.

Just thought I would pass along this tip!

Happy knitting!

KT

PS- I have added recipes to my low carb e-book.  Check it out.

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As I was contemplating the possibility of beginning on one of my latest pillow designs, I thought it might be fun for me to share my thought process with you.

Below is a clip of the condensed chart, which gives me a view of “what you see is what you get,” with a 33 % view.

The design is from a simulated stain glass window that I created for my home in the mountains of Idaho.  I painted the original on plexiglass then mounted it on the window of my kitchen door.  The knitted design incorporates the frame, but I have added a South American butterfly to my Dogwood flowers, instead of the original Hummingbird.

stain glass window designYou will notice that there are 2 separate rings of colors surrounding the center motif.  The first, or outside ring, shapes the pillow.  The black edges will be knitted as part of the design.  The technique I use for this is called Armenian knitting.  I will be using 2 colors in each section and will be weaving the unused color in every other stitch.  This will give me a bit of a textured look, simulating old rough glass.  Any additional colors I might desire will be added using a single ply of the selected yarn, and applied as a duplicate stitch.

The second ring will also be knitted using the same technique, but this time the lines you see with be inserted after the work is finished.  This will give me the option of using an embroidery stitch or crocheted chain to add this detail.

The center motif will be created using the Intarsia knitting technique described in my e-book.

To begin, I roll all my colors into small balls.  Next,  crochet thread, and crochet hook, I make a chain long enough to support the number of stitches on the bottom edge of row#1 on the chart, plus 10.  Breaking the yarn, I leave a 6 inch tail, pull the yarn through and tied a loop in it.  This chain provides me a base for my provisional cast on.

Turning this chain over to the back side, I count in 5 loops from the end before I start picking up the stitches of the first row, inserting the tip of my knitting needle in to the single back loop of each chain stitch.  When all the necessary stitches have been placed on my knitting needle, row one of the chart has been completed.

The next row(purl) begins by adding a stitch.  You can do this anyway you like.  I will be using the following method: knit in front and back of same stitch at beginning and end of row for right side rows, then purl in back and front of stitches at beginning and end of purl rows.  This gives me a more compact addition.

I can’t wait to see the results of my labor.  Once I get started with one of these patterns, it is hard for me to put it down.  I love seeing the picture develop, one row at a time.

I am going to drop this pillow top chart into my Designer Pillow page.  You can also upload this 18 by 18 pillow top chart here.

stain glass pillow design chart

All the yarns are Palette by Knitpicks.  The gauge is 9/12  using a #1 needle

One skein of each color is sufficient.  You can also use fingering yarns from your stash. I have chosen to used  “heathers” for the darkened areas, in the outside ring.    I work with long strands of each color and spit splice yarn additions as needed.

I have not decided what kind of back I will create for this design, but there is plenty of time for that later.  This is definitely not an overnight knitting project.

Below is a photo of what I see on my computer screen using my Pattern Maker Pro.

pm screen view 1If you have this program, then I can send you the actual file to work with.

The second photo is a shot that shows how I number the larger areas of stitches, which helps me to read the chart.

pm screen view 2

It may be a bit hard to see, but I have inserted the stitch count of the main color.

 

Happy knitting – KT

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As I put the finishing touches on my latest pillow design, and then took a good look at the finished product, I decided that only one word could be used to describe the design – Spring.  The blues are as clear as our Idaho skies, the yellow daisies adds the warmth of the sun, and the butterfly- a touch of real life

butterfly pillow - the finished product

I have already share the pattern and instructions for the butterfly, so I won’t repeat that here.  Instead I thought I would walk you through the finishing process as I learned a few things worth passing on.

First, I cut the shape of the pillow form using 4 layers of heavy lofted quilt batting, then sewed the 7 sides together, leaving the top open.

butterfly pillow  oct -form

Next, I  slipped it inside the pillow which has been knitted together on 7 sides, and has had the I-cord applied as well.

buttterfly pillow - ready to fill

 Now it is time to filled the center with fiber fill.

Having done that, I  folded the quilt batting into itself and hand stitched the edge together.  Next step- close the top.

butterfly pillow - closing the top

The first trick here is to make sure that you slip your stitches on to the smallest circle needles you have.  I used my 47 inch zero’s.  They are my “go to ” needles for this use and also for setting my pillow sections up to be blocked.

*Note -When I knitted the last of the 7 sections together, I had left a long strand of yarn just for the purpose of this closure, so it was waiting there for me to pick up and start the last leg of my journey across the top. 

And…just in case you are wondering, yes, I did add 1 stitch to each side of  corners so that the i -cord would flow nicely around the turns.  Once the top row was completed, I secured my yarn ,weaving in the end.

butterfly pillow- finishing the I-cord

The next step is completing the I-cord.  Here again, I first picked up the top row with my zero needle, so as to have more flexible  space to work with.   Using my working needle (#2), which has the 5 stitches of my cord already it, I proceeded across the top.  To make it easier,  instead of trying to knit through the back loops of the 5th stitch and the one to its right, I slipped the 5th stitch, knitted the next stitch through the back loop, then pass the 5th stitch over the new stitch.  Once across,  using the live stitches of my I-cord, I attached it to the beginning of the I-cord with a modified duplicate stitch.

For instructions on the I-cord, type in “I-cord” in the search box to find the post.  the only difference is that I cast on 4 stitches, instead of 2, knitting the base stitch( #5) and the one to its left together.

It has definitely been an interesting design.  Oh, about the spider web I originally thought I would put in the corner- I nixed it.  The butterfly just took on a life of it’s own, and I didn’t want anything to spoil it.  One can change one’s mind you know!  🙂

I have uploaded the charts and basic instructions on my “design pillow” page.

Happy Knitting – KT

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Having just finished my Daisy and Butterfly pillow top, I thought it would be the proper time to upload the tutorial for the 3D butterfly.  I can just see it being used on a knitted purse or hat, maybe both, knitted as a set.  Humm….?  Anyway, here it is for you to upload and use for whatever your imagination can come up with.

butterfly 1

butterfly 2

Butterfly tutorial 2

The tutorial includes chart and instructions.   For any Intarsia questions feel free to upload my e-books on the subject.

Oop’s!  I almost forgot, this butterfly chart is gauged for 8 stitches and 11 rows per inch.  I used fingering yarn.  The approximate size is about 4 inches square.  Of course, you can use any yarn you have to try it, then resize it to fit your project.

Got to get back to knitting the back of the pillow, so for now-Happy knitting!

KT

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I have been working on a tutorial that shares the method I used to knit this Intarsia design in the infants socks I recently completed for my new grand-daughter. One of the most important concepts I tried to illustrate in this method is learning to read the chart properly.   I hope that I succeeded in explaining it clearly.  If not, please feel free to contact me if you are interested.  Below is a photo of the completed sample.

elephant head sample

The second photo is of the back of the design before I wove in the ends.

elephant head design back

You can use this method to insert an Intarsia design in any project knitted in the round.  There are no seams, with only a few exceptions all yarn connections are made at the color exchanges.

Give it a try.

Elephant Head Swatch Tutorial

Happy Knitting – KT

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I just finished knitting a pair of infant socks for our expected arrival in about 2 weeks.  Since my daughter’s theme is “Jungle Pets,”  I decided to do an elephant head on the leg portion of the sock.  Below is the right foot.  I flipped the head chart for the left foot, so that they face each other.  If you noticed the color variation in the photo, it  is due to the fact that the sock is not quite dry yet. 🙂

elephant sock

I used the same method as I described in the “Seamless Cables Tutorial”   to join the outside edge of the design, so as to not have a seam in my sock.  The inner ears of pink are one area that I chose to use the Fair Isle approach, as it eliminated the need to add additional yarn strands to the design, thus cutting down the number of yarn ends having to be woven in at the completion of the project.   On this particular sock, I chose to interlock the rows at the color change on the right edge of the design.

cropped elephant sock

I have also discovered that it is advantageous to leave a longer tail when adding an additional yarn, as these shorter strands(double or single ply) can be used to add duplicate stitches for detail(such as the eye or added grey stitch at the bottom that opens his mouth a bit).

POINT!!  I don’t like to have any more yarn strands to weave in than is absolutely necessary.

When I find the time, I will try to write up a row by row tutorial for the charted design so you can become better acquainted with the technique, but for now, I just wanted to give you a sneak peek at what I did with it.

Happy knitting – KT

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The other day I was working on an idea for a new Mocassin slipper.  After turning over the one I was wearing, I decided to try and duplicate the shape of the sole.  How?  With short rows.

Dividing the sole shape lengthwise, I charted the short rows to achieve the upper half which ends at the toe edge.  Next, I flipped my chart and designed the other half, ending the final row at the back of the heel.  If you will notice there is a blue line of loops down the center;  that is the provisional cast on row.  Once the first half is finished, the provisional chain is released and the stitches are picked up to complete the second half.  Below is the result of my playing around.

If it looks a bit textured, it is.  The entire project is Twine Knitted.   The wonderful double layer will keep my feet warm and toasty.  🙂

The finishing round of this part of the slipper was a purl row, as it made a clean transition before starting the short row shaping for the sides.

After working about 5 even rounds, I marked off the front tow section and began to shape the back part of the slipper sides with short rows.  Once the short rows were complete, I closed the gaps, continued around to the toe section and ,decreased stitches at the front to create a much nicer fit.  The next section will be the top of the toe and a flap that lays up on to the instep.  I am thinking about doing a Fair Isle design for that.      Humm????????

It was during the process of creating the flap for my toe section that I decided to share the process I used .

This double layered(or lined) flap is knitted with straight sides, and single and double stitch portions to form the shape.

I have completed a tutorial with written instructions as well as a chart.  The idea is to get you imaginations going.  Short rows are not limited to sock heels, shoulder seams, and sleeve cap shaping.  This tutorial is a swatch practice that I hope will help you feel more comfortable with closing all sorts of short row gaps.

Below is a result of repeating the chart three times on the same original cast on.

I feel a hand puppet coming on!!!!!!

Short Row Closure Practice Tutorial

PS:  I will be uploading the slipper pattern when its finished.

This morning I added a PDF that might help you understand the way I design these short rows-at least I hope it does.

Short Row Designing

Happy Knitting

KT

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This project has been particularly interesting, as I not only had fun knitting Intarsia , Armenian knitting and Fair Isle, but I also was able to combine three different types of yarns in this design.  The border was done in fingering yarn with lace weight wool and silk strands of  free floating chains riding over the top.

The chicks were especially fun to do with a combination of Aloft mohair, added to a ply of fingering yarn.  Their  3D look was accomplished by adding an additional  two strands of the black mohair to the belly and wing area.  Adding these extra strands automatically increased the gauge without changing the stitch count.  I was able to restore the  gauge around the area by filling the void with poly fill stuffing, then running a few strands of lace weight across the back, side to side, and top to bottom.   Taking up the slack with these strands, allowed me to contract the surrounding stitches back to their proper gauge.  The next move after blocking the top was covering the back with nylon net, (great stuff, by the way) and stitching around the expanded portion of the chicks,so that it would remain securely in place.

The  combination of the Mohair and the 3 D affect  made my chicks look like the little “fuzz balls” they really are.     They are the first thing people touch when they pick up the pillow and comment, ” Oh my gosh!  They look so real!”  And so they do.

The details on the legs, feet, and beak were done with duplicate stitches and crocheted chains of one and two plies of the various yarns.   The various shades on the hen are yarns that have been blended, using  of one ply of each color that have been hand spun back together.   Check out my post on blending yarns if you are interested .

So….the most clarifying  statement I can make about this pillow is that I was never bored knitting it.  It definitely was a challenge to my adventurous knitting spirit.

I also loved working with the free floating chains on the frame of the picture.  Of course as I looked at it more closely I realized this free floating chain pattern would look great on the bottom of a tunic, or the cuff area of a sleeve, or……..  Hummm????  Maybe?   …….

I have included a  tutorial describing the entire process with this  pattern.  I even included charts for practicing the process.  This tutorial is also on my “Fun Stuff”page.  It includes a sample swatch chart of the border for you to practice with.  Enjoy!

At present the pattern is available  in my Ravelry  and Etsy stores.

Again, it was an extremely fun knit.

Happy Knitting

KT

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During the process of knitting up my Sebright Hen and Chicks pillow, I have come up with some things that have made the project much easier.   The first thing is my “Knitting Palette.”  It is a 30 stitch sample of the yarns, and blends of yarn that I have chosen to use in the pattern.  By first experimenting with the colors, I was able to begin knitting on the picture, confident that the colors I chose would work.   Below is a photo of the sample that I uploaded to my Serif publishing program.  Once in Serif, I was able to label the colors and save the sample for future reference.

 

I have boxed the various shades with colored borders and written a description on the right.  The bottom section is a mix of Mohair lace weight and fingering yarn.  This blend of the two types of yarn added a bit of reality to my little “fuzz ball” chicks.  It worked great.   I even varied the amount of strands to see what it would do.

 

By adding an extra strand of the Mohair lace weight I was able to create a “relief sculpture” affect to the wing and belly area.   This expanded area is retracted to its proper gauge, by creating a yarn web across the back which is stuffed with a bit pf Polyfill.

And yes,  that’s” Scratch” on the ground, created by making small bobbles of blended yarn.  I got a kick out of making those.  Sorry for the side track – now back to the Yarn Palette.

The top half is the shades of color I chose  for my Sebright hen.  I began with Suede alone, knitted 4 rows.  Next, I blended one ply of Suede with one ply of Brass Heather.  That gave me a slightly darker golden tone.  The next 4 rows were done with Brass Heather alone.   In the blue section I blended Brass Heather and Doe, but this combo didn’t lead to much of a change. (scratch that one).  The next combo gave me a darker shade- yes, Brass Heather and Bison will do it.  All this prep took time, but I didn’t need to guess how it would look .  I worked for me!  by the way, the colors mentioned above are all from Knitpicks.com.

The next aid that really helped me was my MUSIC STAND.  Yep!  There it was, sitting there next to my harp doing nothing (I play mostly from memory anyway) and the light went on in my head, “Wait, you can use that to put your chart on.”  And so I did.  Now it is not sliding off my lap so I have to chase it all over the floor.

Little things mean a lot!!!!!

Just thought I’d share.

Happy Knitting

KT

 

 

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