I have been at this a while, but finally completed the project. This size 44, is made of fingering yarn on a size 3 circle needle. It is designed to go over the top of thermo ski clothing. My thinking was “sweat shirt.”
The overlayed design on the bottom of the body of the sweater is done with lace weight yarn. The stitches are worked in between the stockinette stitches of the sweater. Every other row the black decorative stitches are slipped, then the following row are cabled over in whatever direction I want them to go. They ride freely between the stitches. It has the appearance of crocheted stitches.
You will notice in the photo above that I also worked the same design at the top of the sleeves.
All the ribbed sections began with an invisible cast on.
I made this for my grandson who is in the Navy.
You can be sure I will include washing instructions and moth deterrent in the box.
Having completed the body of my grandson’s Ski sweater, I decided to knit both sleeves at the same time. One of the issues that comes up when doing this is that the underarm increases need to be handy, but also needed to be where I wouldn’t be dealing with “ladders, ” a frequent an issue when knitting in the round.
I solved this problem by moving the stitches so that the seam area was in the middle of the needle,with a marker at the seam. I executed the increase with a YO, knit 1, move marker, then knit 1 YO. Attaching a stitch/row counter to the cuff starting tail, I began increasing as my pattern established.
This particular sweater is knitted with fingering yarn on size #3, 40 in circle needles.
By using this method to insert the increases, I have had no problems with “holes” or loose stitches.
Just thought I’s share.
I apologize for my tardiness in posting, but at age 80 I have taken up studying the violin. I am having so much fun, and Mutes are a God send. 🙂
Below is a photo of the completed Viceroy butterfly.
As I was looking at the setting, I realized that the scene incorporates several of my crocheted projects-the English Rose tablecloth of Curio from KnitPicks; the last of my crocheted Iris, after making an arrangements for each of my children, and the butterfly, using metallic sewing threads.
It actually floored me to think of the hours that went into each project; however, each hour was challenging, and rewarding. It also seems to bring a smile from those that pause at the table, leading to many an interesting conversation.
So.. back to the sewing threads, my CraftOptics glasses, and practicing the gift of patience.
The Viceroy butterfly looks similar to the Monarch, but they are not in the same family. This version is constructed entirely with “Basketweave St. No “hand “stitching was use to make the white markings on the wing. The top wing span here is about 3 inches, twice the size of the actual butterfly. A “giant” version, if you will. And.. since it is art…. I made the dimensions large enough to make the details doable.
It took me about 2 weeks to do this much, but that was spread out, as I only work about one half hour at a time; that schedule keeps me from being uncomfortable. Yes, it is intense work, but the rewards are great, and my new CraftOptic glasses and light are a life saver. Without them this work would be impossible.
A few adjustments to the bottom wings and we are good to go.
This has been quite an undertaking, but well worth my time. The entire project was made using the Basketweave stitch. I used a 12 by 15 styrofoam cooler to send it in, as it gave all the elements plenty of room to move without being crushed, and the ring was safely wedged to the inside recess designed for the lid. My son said it arrived in perfect shape.
Now it is time to make one for my daughter. The next one with be a giant Morpho. Their iridescent blue top and pattern underside make for an interesting challenge. Their wing span of 8 inches also make them more doable, especially in the ten inch ring.
This is definitely going to be a fun project. As always I start with a graphic of what I have in mind. Unlike the first Morpho, which was done in regular crochet stitches, this one will be done with the Basketweave stitch.
The above image is just for starters, but at least it gives me a reference as to size and shape.
As I was working on my current project I found myself have to rig up some kind of tension stablizer for working with my metallic threads. My solution?
T-pins
By running my 2 threads through the head of the pin(which I can position anywhere), it helps keep them together and makes crocheting with them much more smooth.
As you can see above, I use double pointed needles for spool carriers. The thread on each spool is then fed through the top of the T-pin and positioned near the 2 spools. Next, I repeat the process and position the second T-pin near the edge of my working surface, hopefully freeing the threads from catching on any of my other “stuff.”
You can use as many as you like to get the job done.
I find this works rather well, so I wanted to share it with you before I forgot.
Most of us are familiar with the needles and hooks of crocheting and knitting, but some of the best tools are those that help us “see” what is going on between our “stix and strings.” Because this subject is often neglected until we reach our mature years, I thought it might be useful to share my discovery in this area.
Since I am currently working with size 80 threads, and size .60-.90 hooks, my best “buddy” has become my pair of CraftOptic glasses, with an attached “Dream Beam” light.
These wonderful glasses are prescription lenses, with telescopes built on the glasses that can be lifted at any time. The Dream Beam, has a high and low setting.
Monarch Butterfly
When I am using the metallic threads of gold, I use the low setting, as it keep the glare of the thread down. When I work with the #80 black, I use the high setting, and I can see every stitch.
This gives you an idea of the size of the wing.
I absolutely could not do this comfortably without these glasses.
Check them out for yourself-just click on the link above opposite the first picture.
Yes, they are not cheap, but they are worth every dime I spent, and the staff has been great, and very helpful. Once you purchase the glasses, they will change the prescription for reasonable fee.
Below is a photo of the Red Cardinal I crocheted for my Christmas tree.
This has been more than a months project, with many stops and starts, but well worth the time. For many of you this might seem an overwhelming task, but for me it has been nothing but joy.
Here you can see the detail on the tail and back.
I have contemplated writing a pattern, but that really isn’t possible, because there are so many variables. That said, however, I can give you the general idea.
A picture of the bird you want to create( I find them on the web). Get all the facts of the birds size. This takes a bit of research, but the info is out there.
Bring the photo into whatever publishing software you have on your pc. Outline the body, wings and tail. Remove the original picture, save all the sections as one unit, then size the bird image to the size you need.
Print off the image.
Working with the image, create you body, then the wings and tail.
Use floral wire to stabilize the wings and tail sections
You can see in the photo above what I mean by working with the image. It is the only way I have found that works, at least for me. You will notice that the body has Poly-fil stuff in the head and body. I fill it as I go to make sure it has the right shape. I simply pull it out when I am satisfied, then continue on.
The detail for this Cardinal, was created with a single strand of sliver embroidery thread and a single strand of grey sewing thread.
The Basketweave stitch that I posted on my website, was the main stitch for the construction of the wings and tail. The body was constructed with a SC stitch, using the back loops only.
I used size 20 crochet thread, and 1.25 hook for the main body, wings and tail, with the addition of a single red iridescent embroidery thread. The additional thread gives it a little shine, and is picked up by the Christmas lights on the tree. I also use it( the spool on the extreme left of the photo) to add a bit of sparkling color to the crown of the head.
In this photo you can see the black pearls I inserted for eyes. I love the highlight in the black, The peak is constructed separately.
There is no time like the up coming Christmas holidays to bring out the creative spirit in all of us. This year I have decided to create a White Dove ornament for my Christmas tree.
Basic structure is created with 26 and 30 gauge wire, #20 crochet thread with number 6 (4), hook and a sytro ball in the main body. The inserted beads are from Knitpicks (#6, rainbow clear).
This dove is actually about one half scale. My research information said that they are 12 in from tip to tip, and have up to a 18 inch wing span. They are part of the pigeon family.
White Christmas Dove
It has definitely been an interesting journey, but well worth my time. I have already started on another one, and hope sometime soon to have the pattern to share.
I hope this inspires you to start thinking about what you can create.
It is just off the needles and lightly pressed. I will be blocking it next week with a touch of sizing on the edges. What I am excited about is that I was able to create what finished edge that I wanted.
I will, of course, be able to make the circle more exact, and the points even when I block it, but even at that it doesn’t look to bad.
Thanks so much for making your method of slipped short row heels available. It looks so nice and neat on the inside and outside plus NO HOLES . I have never been happy with the wrapped or yarn over short row heel on my socks. Your method is just so amazingly easy. I’ll be using this on all my heels and toes from now on. I recommend this for anyone who doesn’t like picking up stitches for a heel flap or holes in their short rows.
And I might add that I will be trying her newest tweak on the heels and toes of my next socks."
Deb
Creative Knitting - Beyond Knit and Purl 