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If you have never expanded your horizons or tried new things this post is not for you.  However, if you are like me, you are always looking to learn something new and exciting.

I have recently been exploring Romanian Point Lace and Crocheted Tape Lace, and bobbin Lace.  Why?  My goal is to be able to mix and match all those techniques and combine them with my knitting skills.  What possibilities it opens up.

The crocheted tape lace can be used to create beautiful neckline embellishments for you knitted blouses and tops, sleeve edges, and bottom edges as well.  They also make great bands for hats.

Below is a photo of my store bought hat with a crocheted tape lace in variegated pink.

Combine that with an inexpensive top edged with the same tape lace, and you make a great presentation walking down the street.

You will notice that also crochet earrings to match.

The next photo is of the same idea, only this time I created a Romanian point lace design for both hat and neckline.

The rose design match the motif on the front of my top.

And need you ask???? Yes, I made earring to match. 🙂

As in most cases, one idea leads to another, so I am thinking up more designs for these hat bands, as they can be moved to whatever hat I am wearing.  As you can see the Romanian point lace design is very sturdy.

I do wash them in hot water when finished and after rolling them in a towel place them directly on the hat to dry.  I have a Styrofoam head  made to my dimensions, so it works perfectly to shape my piece.

Give it a try.  You can find it all on Youtube.

KT

PS- I love the Russian websites. These women are amazing and you can learn just by watching-no translation needed.

Just use your “snipping tool” when you want a pic of the process, and have your pad and pencil ready to write instruction in English as you go.

Tabi Kneehighs

Waynes snake sox 3

These are the snake skin socks that I have been working on for my brother.  In previous posts I have given you the chart for the leg portion.  In this post I will share with you my method of keeping these socks up where they belong all day long.  And he said that they indeed stayed up all day long.

One of the secrets of making knee highs stay “up” is making them big enough at the calf so that they just lay nicely on the skin.  Once past the calf portion I worked a 2 by 2 rib for about  1 1/2 inches or until I reach the indent at the back of the knee, putting in lifelines to mark my casing stitches that I would pick up later.

Since this pattern is establish for 121 sts, I have 3 knit stitches as my center back.  I will be making a yo buttonhole for the 1/4 inch elastic to be inserted when done. As my gauge for these socks were 8sts to 11 rows, I calculated that a 5 or 6 rounds(rows)would be close to, or slightly over 1/2 inch.

In the photo below you can see the gray lifeline (#1) that I established at round 7 using #10 crochet thread, picking up the purl bumps only, on the back side of my knitting. These were picked up after I knitted round #8, so that they would lie directly under my needle cord.

Once this is done work another half inch, then repeat the same process.

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Once you have finished you 1 1/2 inch rib, now you need to complete the inside casing.  Knit 2 rounds.  Beginning at the center back 3 sts; knit 1, yo (twice), K 2 tog.  This YO will make your buttonhole opening for the elastic.  Next round , center three stitches; K 1, k YO, K 1. Finish ribbing round.  Continue your rib until you are a little more than one inch from you from you top(second) life line.

Next, using a smaller circle needle(I used a #o circle needle) pick up the sts from your second life line from bottom top, beginning at the center back, where you have 3 purl bumps.  Line up both needles, placing about 1/4 of the total sts on the steel part of the needles. Your knit sts on the front side should line up with the purl pairs on you pick up needle.

waynes sock top 1

Work rib across as before, but this time knit the knit stitches from the front needle with the purl pairs on the back needle.  Purl the next 2 sts from the front needle only.  Repeat, until all sts are knitted for this round. Release the pick-up needle.

Work the next half inch as before, making buttonhole opening for elastic in center back.  Pick up the next stitches off the next life line.

waynes sock top

Line up the needles.  This time bind off the knit stitches with the purl stitches on the pick-up needle.  bind off the next purl stitches on the front needle by themselves. Repeat on all stitches are bound off.

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Now they are finished and ready for the elastic to be inserted into the button hole at the center back.  I have found that 1/4 inch elastic works very well.  I like it better than the round elastic, as it seems to hold up better.

Below is a detailed description of this process using my gauge.

I knitted 17 rounds of rib to my desired height.  My life lines were put in on round 7, and 12.  Rounds 18-19 were worked even.  At round 20, I made my YO opening in the center back 3 stitches. Worked 3 more round even, then stopped and pickup the stitches off my nearest lifeline.  Next I worked 2 more rounds. Next round ,worked buttonhole(YO), then worked next 2 rounds even.  Picked up stitches off last lifeline, and cast off.  I inserted elastic, overlapped it one inch, and stitched it by hand. My brother had previously sent me the measurement for the elastic, so I knew I was in the ballpark.

 

Happy Knitting- KT

 

 

I know that it has been a while since I posted, but the holidays have kept me busy with singing and composing for my local community choir; however, I have been busy working on a pair of Tabi boot socks for my brother.

As he is a hiker, he wanted me to design a rattlesnake motif for the outside of the leg portion the upper sock, and opted for a purl textured diamond design on the inside of the leg.  Very interesting challenge.

Because I wanted it seamless, I opted to use my “seamless cables” technique for the back closure.  Just a hint of a cable of 5 stitches plus the 2 outside purls for the frame.  It worked great.  Here are some photos.

You can see that the cable is very subtle, so is the diamond design on the inside leg.

 

rattlesnake-sock-chart-upper-leg

Working chart

The above is just a sample of the chart I worked up to knit the  upper leg portion.  On the right side I have charted the 7 stitch cable for the center back of the sock.   The connection is made at the first purl stitch stitch of the cable.  If you are interested take a look at the “Seamless Cables” using the search box at the top of the page.

You can work any kind of cable pattern for this purpose, just keep it to 5-9 sts.

Just thought I would share.  KT

 

I know that it has been a while since I posted an article on knitting, but I have been busy redecorating my home.  Of course that called for a new lace curtain for my bathroom.

I used the valance pattern that I recently posted, then added a tatted edge with beads to bring a little sparkle into the room.

Here is a peak at the results-

and…yes, I know, it’s not quite centered….but 🙂

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Here is a close-up of the center section.

2016-06-21-06-15-47

It was definitely a fun project.

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Though this pic is a bit darker, it gives you more of the overall affect.  The actual wall paint is a very light rose color.

Just so you know, the two angled mini-stripes under the wall art are reflections off a mirror.

Using the combined crafts gave me lots of options for the finish.

The setup was crocheting loops of 5 sts each, and spacing them equally across the bottom edges.  Next, I just played with different ideas until I came up with the combination that allowed my work to lay as flat as possible, and positioned my beads where they would accent the arches to their max.

For those of you who tat, that combo was basically; 9ds chains, and 4/4 rings which were attached to the centers of those crocheted loops.

Here is a bit of a diagram-

Lace Curtain-tatted edge-side-panel

As for the knitting pattern- I used the same chart as for the Large Lace Curtain Valance, accept that I only used one repeat of the five arches in the center section.  I also decided not to stack them, as in the original design.

My next project is to tat some pink and silver butterflies to grace my adjacent walls.

I hope this gives you some ideas to play with.

Happy knitting-KT

2016-02-14 11.00.48Yes, I know this isn’t knitting, but…………. it did start with my knitted purses.  I fell in love with the beads. Who knew????

Because these beaded purses were made for gifts, I wanted to create a pair of earrings to make the picture complete- that’s when I discovered needle tatting.  I am sure that some of you who visit my site have also done some of the other crafts too, so as you know one thing leads to another.

The photo above is my latest design, and it will be going to my grand-daughter for her birthday.  I call it “Midnight Sky.”

I have written up the pdf pattern for any of you who are interested.  feel free to upload it to your PC.

Midnight Sky Tatted Necklace and Earring set

As for knitting, I am at present working on tabi boot socks for my brother.  I have both socks on two needles.waynes socks on two needlesI will be ribbing up the center through the ankle for a better fit, as he has a wide foot with a narrow heel and ankle.

Once I have the heel and ankle sections complete I will be working an Intarsia pattern in the round, using the back center motif as the turn.  He requested a rattle snakeskin design, so I have it charted and ready to go.  I will update you on the pattern when they are completed.  As for now they are a work in progress.  The chart for the leg section only I have inserted below.  This chart makes the top colorful side of the skin to ride on the side of the leg, and the inside has the belly colors.  It should be interesting.

He is a hiker, so he plans on showing off for the snakes. 🙂

Sounds “nuts” to me!

rattle snake skin sock

Just had to share- KT

Not long ago, I posted the photo and pattern of the bathroom curtain set I designed.

lace curtain finishedSince that time I have had over 700 uploads of the pattern. As a result, I have also had a request for a larger version.  To that end I have designed a 60 inch valance for those of you who have larger windows to cover.  It should go nicely with a 36-48 inch window.

Why only the valance?  If you make the valance first, the fullness and drape will let you know if you want the bottom panel larger or not.  You will get the full affect of the lace-and you might not even need to knit a bottom panel, the valance might just do the trick nicely.  I have included the original chart for the bottom panel in this tutorial.

Below is a graphic of the valance chart.  It gives you a feel for the overall design.  This chart is for a 60 by 30 valance.

graphic of lace valanceEach side panel is graduated toward the center.  The original center panel has been expanded two extra repeats.  The possibilities are endless.  You could continue adding the Lilly of the Valley arches to the side panels, blending them in to the center.

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2006-06-28 00.44.01

 

Each side panel in this 60 inch version measures 12 -13 inches, including the 3 stitch border. Each added arch equals approximately 3 inches in width.  If you needed a 72 inch version, you simply add two extra arches to the side panels (6 inches on both sides).  You can also add to the length of the side panels by adding on or two extra vertical arch repeats.  You also have the option of adding to the top as you knit you Stockinette finish for the casing.

There are 4 files in this pattern because of the size.  The first one includes instructions and chart symbols.  The last 3 are the charts for each section.

*Note-  I did  not write instructions for every row, only those that need extra explanations.  These rows are starred in red on the right side of the charts.  The rows are also number, and each chart has the corresponding numbers to the others.  The chart symbols are explained in the tutorial.  I have also illustrated special techniques when necessary.

Instruction manual – large lace curtain valance

Right Panel – large lace valance right side

Left Panel – large lace valance left side

Center Panel – large lace valance-center panel

Of course my brain is just full of creative possibilities for this type of project.  Pictures of flowers, animals, scenes from nature- hum…………………………………?

Happy knitting – KT

Knitting Beaded Daisy

becky's finished purse

becky's finished purse- -casing detail

Knitting in the beaded daisies in the casing of this evening bag requires a little practice, but is not hard.

I have applied the “wrap” method that I use to set the beads on top of the knitting.   This application is described in my first beaded evening bag tutorial, but just for a review I will explain it again here.bead wrap 1When you come to the stitch that you need to apply the bead, slip the stitch to the right needle, bring the working yarn (in pink) forward, then slip the stitch (green) back to the left needle.

bead wrap 2Slide the bead to the base of the stitch.

bead wrap 3While holding the bead in place with your left thumb, bring the yarn to the back and knit the stitch (green) through the back loop.

bead wrap 4Adjust any tension errors before you move on.  Make sure that the bead is resting at the base of the stitch.

Using this same method, I used a string of beads, instead of one, to make the petals of the daisy.

bead wrap 5The only difference using the string of beads is the drape.  On the knit side swing the beads to the right, hold in position and then bring the yarn to back and knit in the back loop of the stitch as before.

bead wrap 6The purl side is handled in the same manner only your beads will be on the side of the needle opposite you.  But to clarify –

Purl side-  slip stitch indicated in chart for bead (single or string) placement to the right needle.  Bring yarn to knit side between needles.  Slip stitch back to left needle.  Swing bead string to the left, hold in place with right index finger, then bring yarn to purl side.  Purl the stitch as usual.  Make tension adjustments, snugging bead string up so it lies smoothly at the base of the designated stitch.  Not too tight!

Charted Daisy

daisy flower charted

In the chart for the casing of the evening bag the daisy flower is charted as above.  The blue square indicates the center (accent bead) of the flower.    The outside petals (bead string) are dropped in on the purl row above.  The yellow square with the star, indicates the placement stitch for the bead string.

After the knitting is all done, I secure the beads in place with a single strand of the yarn.  In this case, the Lindy Chain is unchained and used for my sewing thread- a perfect match.

Here is the pattern for the evening bag-Daisy Flower Beaded Evening Bag

I crochet the daisies on the strap tabs with bead wire.

If you have any question you know where to find me.

Happy New Year!!

KT