These are the snake skin socks that I have been working on for my brother. In previous posts I have given you the chart for the leg portion. In this post I will share with you my method of keeping these socks up where they belong all day long. And he said that they indeed stayed up all day long.
One of the secrets of making knee highs stay “up” is making them big enough at the calf so that they just lay nicely on the skin. Once past the calf portion I worked a 2 by 2 rib for about 1 1/2 inches or until I reach the indent at the back of the knee, putting in lifelines to mark my casing stitches that I would pick up later.
Since this pattern is establish for 121 sts, I have 3 knit stitches as my center back. I will be making a yo buttonhole for the 1/4 inch elastic to be inserted when done. As my gauge for these socks were 8sts to 11 rows, I calculated that a 5 or 6 rounds(rows)would be close to, or slightly over 1/2 inch.
In the photo below you can see the gray lifeline (#1) that I established at round 7 using #10 crochet thread, picking up the purl bumps only, on the back side of my knitting. These were picked up after I knitted round #8, so that they would lie directly under my needle cord.
Once this is done work another half inch, then repeat the same process.
Once you have finished you 1 1/2 inch rib, now you need to complete the inside casing. Knit 2 rounds. Beginning at the center back 3 sts; knit 1, yo (twice), K 2 tog. This YO will make your buttonhole opening for the elastic. Next round , center three stitches; K 1, k YO, K 1. Finish ribbing round. Continue your rib until you are a little more than one inch from you from you top(second) life line.
Next, using a smaller circle needle(I used a #o circle needle) pick up the sts from your second life line from bottom top, beginning at the center back, where you have 3 purl bumps. Line up both needles, placing about 1/4 of the total sts on the steel part of the needles. Your knit sts on the front side should line up with the purl pairs on you pick up needle.
Work rib across as before, but this time knit the knit stitches from the front needle with the purl pairs on the back needle. Purl the next 2 sts from the front needle only. Repeat, until all sts are knitted for this round. Release the pick-up needle.
Work the next half inch as before, making buttonhole opening for elastic in center back. Pick up the next stitches off the next life line.
Line up the needles. This time bind off the knit stitches with the purl stitches on the pick-up needle. bind off the next purl stitches on the front needle by themselves. Repeat on all stitches are bound off.
Now they are finished and ready for the elastic to be inserted into the button hole at the center back. I have found that 1/4 inch elastic works very well. I like it better than the round elastic, as it seems to hold up better.
Below is a detailed description of this process using my gauge.
I knitted 17 rounds of rib to my desired height. My life lines were put in on round 7, and 12. Rounds 18-19 were worked even. At round 20, I made my YO opening in the center back 3 stitches. Worked 3 more round even, then stopped and pickup the stitches off my nearest lifeline. Next I worked 2 more rounds. Next round ,worked buttonhole(YO), then worked next 2 rounds even. Picked up stitches off last lifeline, and cast off. I inserted elastic, overlapped it one inch, and stitched it by hand. My brother had previously sent me the measurement for the elastic, so I knew I was in the ballpark.
Happy Knitting- KT