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Posts Tagged ‘double-knit design’

Well- I promised I would work on this, so here it is.

cake pan jacket

I used cotton yarn(Peaches and Cream), and 1 inch elastic (non-roll).  I also opted for a variegated MC (main color) and used a solid black for my CC(contrast color).

In the process of working on this I also discover how to make a alternating color cable cast on, which is match on on the top with and alternating color cast off, both edges mirroring each other.  I think it is pretty cool.

The main body of the knit is done in double knitting, which forms the casing for the elastic.  The elastic band is knitted right in, so when you are done-your done!

Below I have uploaded instructions for this project, in which I have included instructions for the “alternate color cable cast on, and off.  There is a swatch practice for you to use for establishing your gauge and practicing both the cast on, and cast off.

If you are not sure why you should make one or two of these “pan jackets”  then check out this post

 

Cake Pan Jacket

Happy knitting- KT

PS-Because of my discovery, I also can use this method to make straps for my purses.  Having the casing open on both ends will allow me to insert a piece of ribbon into the strap, stabilizing the stretching, and…..I will have two pretty edges to boot.  Yeah!!!!

Oh,just an observation-

I washed my jacket, squeezed it out, put it on my pan, blocked it out and let it dry.   Then  I  observed that the cotton yarn holds the moisture quite a bit longer than wool, so  I finally, tossed it in a low dryer.  It didn’t hurt it a bit.  I can’t wait to bake with it.  I will let you know the results.

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I promised that I would upload this pattern, so here it is.  The instructions are general, as I know most of you knit socks already.  This pattern includes the following techniques – Fair Isle, tubular cast on, double knit short row heel and toe, and Kitchener closure.  I have also given instructions on how to prepare for the inserting elastic in the rib casings.    If you have forgotten what they look like, below is a photo. nordic rose knee  high for website

I have altered the pattern a bit, realigning the roses and adding rose buds at the top.  The pdf’s below are available for you to upload.

Nordic Rose Leg and Instep Chart

Nordic Rose – Knee High Pattern

Nordic Rose Hell and Toe Charts

You might want to check out my post on “Oops Becomes a Blessing.”  This post gives you more info on the elastic insertion.  I am still finding the after several washing, the stockings stay up all day.  The combo of using a larger needle for the calf area, combined with the 1/4 inch elastic rounds enclosed in the ribbing works like magic.

I you have any questions, you know where to reach me.

Happy knitting- KT

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There is nothing more disheartening than to be working along with two colors on a double knit and discover that you have an uneven row on one side or the other, creating an unattractive line across the face of your knitted surface.   Some people call this “rowing out.” Who wants that??

As a rule I knit very evenly in stockinette, but when I double knit I have run into this problem.  What’s the answer?

I tried knitting with the yarns carried in one  hand, but soon knew that this was definitely NOT the answer.  Next, I tried using both hands, just as I do when color knitting.  It worked much better, but the purls were still  a bit loose.  Then, I took the time to work just a few stitches (about 16) in a swatch, examining every row.

I soon discovered that I needed to take up more slack when I purled the alternate color.  The results were stunning.  The trick- look for the purl bump.  Raise it up so that you can see it near the top of your needle.  You might even feel the yarn taking up the slack as you make the lift-I did.

If you are knitting Continental, and purling English the “purple” on the right-hand index finger below will be raising the “purl bump” toward the top of the needle.

double knitting tension 1I you are knitting English and purling Continental, then your left-hand index finger will be lifting the purl bump into position before the right hand swings the yarn back to begin the next set of yarns in the sequence.

double knitting tension 2

 

 

The results-

double knitting sample 1

No ridges

double knitting sample 2

My advice- practice this.  See what results you get.  I works for me, maybe it will work for you.

One more thing.  I don’t know if you have noticed but when you are double knitting the gauge changes.  In my experience, I find that it usually runs 6 stitches to 8 rows, instead of the 6 stitches to 9 rows that I knit in a flat pattern.  Because of this, I have uploaded both charts, as one can be used for regular color knitting and the 6 by 8’s can be used for DK knitting.  These charts are in on my “Free Patterns” page.

double knitting sample 3

As this is the first block of my “Idaho Memories Afgan”  I did not want to be dealing with this problem for 30 blocks of the design.  Now I don’t have to.  Yeah!!!!

Hope this helps-  KT

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nordic rose knee high finish 1

When I finished these “Nordic Rose” knee highs, I found that they were a bit loose for me.  At first, I just washed them in the washer and put them into the dryer to shrink them a mite.  That helped a little but they were still a tad to big around the ankle.
To compensate, I pulled them up higher, which left me with a ribbed band that was a bit long.   The fix-fold it over, encasing  1/8 th inch elastic bands to secure them around the top of the calf.

nordic rose knee high finish 2

Because I had striped the ribbing, I was able to use a crochet hook to slip stitch the opposing purl bumps  that formed the black strips together (top of photo) to form a casing for the joined  elastic band.  The next step was to slip another elastic ring over the sock in into the area just under the first casing.  Using the crochet hook again, I slip stitched the top edge of the stocking to the base of the ribbing.

The real lesson here is that because the stockings are a bit looser, and they have the elastic rings in the top to pull them in, they stay up all day.

The next time I make this design, I will plan my casings in the ribbed( using #2″s)  area, use the #3 needle for the calf area before the decreases, then return to the #2 to finish the stocking.  That extra stitch per inch in the calf area, allows the knitting to move with you, without seeking a path of least resistance to the ankle- just like water flowing down hill.  The secret is to make them long enough to have the elastic ride above the largest calf portion, so that it pulls in just below the knee.

Below are the charts for this stocking.

Nordic Rose Knee High Pattern

Nordic Rose Knee High Chart

Nordic Rose Heel, Toe, and Border Charts

Happy Knitting-

KT

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Since my last post, I have been playing around with the idea of double knitting the handbag. Below is a sample of my efforts.

Double Knit Hand bag Sample

Right side- Honeycomb

Wrong side = Stockinette

double knit honeycomb sample

Above is the outside (or right side) knit in the honeycomb stitch.

double knit  hand bag inner lining

Here you can see the lining of the handbag in white.  It is knit in  the stockinette stitch.  It really wasn’t as hard as I thought it might be.  You only have to work with both yarns every other round.  The second and fourth rounds require that you work the yarns separately, as the honeycomb stitch is purled in those rounds.

The Stuffed I-cord

Now, the next sample is the result of working out the idea of a “stuffed” I-cord.  This creates a true cording that will stand up along the edge, and is worked from the back side of the fabric.  In this sample I cast on 3 extra stitches, connecting the 4th st with the 5 fth by knitting them together through the back loop.

stuffed I-cord

*I just knit this up on the spur of the moment so I knitted the I-cord onto a swatch I had been working on, so that’s why you see the wrong side of the fabric.

Before bringing the yarn across the back I inserted 3 strands of the purple.  To keep it in its proper place, I only had to make sure to bring the working yarn(white) under neath the 3 strands before pulling it across to knit the next section of the I-cord.

stuffed I-cord - 2

Here is a top view.  You can see that the tube is nicely rounded.  I am definitely going to try it on one of my pillows.

I will also use the same color yarn to fill the center, that way nothing will show through.  You could also use commercial cotton cording if you prefer.

Just thought I would share.

I can’t wait to get the yarn for the final version of my handbag.  🙂

KT

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After completing the Nordic socks, I ventured to come up with a double knit heel to replace the two I knitted in the original design.  Below is a photo of the results.

double knit short row heel-1I began this heel “test” with a provisional crocheted chain of waste yarn, ( as I do all my experiments),then picked up 37 sts using the MC, then set up my double knitting row.  Setting aside the 5 stitches in the center, I worked a alternate checker board design for the rest of the heel.

I treated the short rows the same as I would if I were working with a single thread, except for the fact that I brought both yarns to the back when slipping the front knit stitch, and both yarns to the front, before slipping the back purl stitch.

Below is a photo of the inside.

double knit short row heel-2

Here is a photo of the completed turns.

double knit short row heel-4

double knit short row heel-5

Both sides are completely finished and ready to complete the rest of the sock.  You can also use this method to make you toe section.

double knit short row heel-6

I closed the short rows in the same manner as I use in J’ Short Row Heel instructions, using the appropriate color to retain the design.  The only difference is that you will be working one side at a time.  After completing the knit side closure, I  bring the yarn to the front, then turn the work around. With the left needle tip, I pick up the slipped st in the row below the stitch to the right of the slipped st, place it on the needle, then turn the work again back to my original knitting position, then purl the two stitches together.  The rest is the same.

I have charted this design, you can upload to practice with in the near future, but for now, it’s something you might think about trying.  The instructional PDF includes several charts for you to choose from. I have also included some illustrations.

Double Knit Short Row Nordic Heel

I definitely will be using this in my next knee high stocking design, and my husbands socks as well.

Happy knitting !!!

KT

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nordic knee highs

Well, they are finally off the needles and covering my “tooties.”

nordic knee highs 2

I thought I might let you in on my secret of keeping them UP!

I have found that elastic thread crocheted to the inside of the top of the rib does a good job.  You might also notice, if you take the time to look at some of the commercial socks, they also use this method.

nordic knee highs- elastic finish

It is really easy to do.  Using a small crochet hook, make a slip knot in the elastic thread leaving about 6 inches for a tail.  I begin my crocheting about 2 sts down from the top edge.  I use the knit 2 sequence of the rib to anchor the crocheted chain, then chain 2 between the sections of the rib.   Slip stitch you elastic into the right leg of the first selected knit stitch, then slip stitch into the left leg of the knit stitch directly to the left.  The next step is to chain 2(which take care of the purl 2 section), then repeat the 2 slip stitches as before in the next group of knit 2’s to your left.  The tension you use to hold back on the elastic thread will determine how tight it is, so be gentle.  When you have completed the round, leave a 6 inch tail and pull the elastic through the last slip stitch.

DO NOT TIE IT OFF.

Put the stocking on, and see how it works.  If you need to tighten it a bit, then simply release the elastic, pull it out and tighten your tension a bit more.

You can work 1-3 rounds of this elastic chain, spacing the chains about 2-3 stitches apart.  I made my second round 3 stitches below the first round.

  They worked for me.

Give it a try!

nordic knee highs- paired with twine knitted mocassinsHere is a photo of these knee highs paired with my Twine knitted moccasin.

Happy knitting!!!

KT

Oh!  Be sure to check out the pattern charts I uploaded for you in my last post.  Check out “Nordic Boot Sock Ideas.”

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