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Posts Tagged ‘double-knit design’

Today I just finished the first of a series of e-books focused on my adventures in color knitting.  It has been a real challenge as well as a great joy to put together.  My hope is that someone will get something out of it.  If not, then perhaps some member of my family will be able to “pick” grandma’s brain when I’m gone.

The 26 page book I am uploading for you is mostly focused on Intarsia, although I do have a section on knitting and purling with both hands.  The information and illustrations in it are from my experience in developing my designer pillow patterns, which are intense color knitting; thus the title“Intarsiamania.”  The book has two sections.  The first deals with Intarsia basics; the second, focuses on yarn management.

Capture

Painting with Yarn – Intarsiamania

I hope you enjoy the book.   I hope that some of the techniques will be helpful on your next color knitting project.

Happy knitting-  KT

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I just finished knitting a pair of infant socks for our expected arrival in about 2 weeks.  Since my daughter’s theme is “Jungle Pets,”  I decided to do an elephant head on the leg portion of the sock.  Below is the right foot.  I flipped the head chart for the left foot, so that they face each other.  If you noticed the color variation in the photo, it  is due to the fact that the sock is not quite dry yet. 🙂

elephant sock

I used the same method as I described in the “Seamless Cables Tutorial”   to join the outside edge of the design, so as to not have a seam in my sock.  The inner ears of pink are one area that I chose to use the Fair Isle approach, as it eliminated the need to add additional yarn strands to the design, thus cutting down the number of yarn ends having to be woven in at the completion of the project.   On this particular sock, I chose to interlock the rows at the color change on the right edge of the design.

cropped elephant sock

I have also discovered that it is advantageous to leave a longer tail when adding an additional yarn, as these shorter strands(double or single ply) can be used to add duplicate stitches for detail(such as the eye or added grey stitch at the bottom that opens his mouth a bit).

POINT!!  I don’t like to have any more yarn strands to weave in than is absolutely necessary.

When I find the time, I will try to write up a row by row tutorial for the charted design so you can become better acquainted with the technique, but for now, I just wanted to give you a sneak peek at what I did with it.

Happy knitting – KT

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Since I got into the “slipper mode” a few weeks ago, I have been playing around with ideas to warm my cold feet.  The howling winds outside and the snow covering the ground, are constant reminded to get busy, so I forged ahead.

Tonight I finally finished my new design, for a partially felted slipper.  Why, partially?  Its sole and sides are felted, while the upper toe and instep area is twined knitted in wool.  The ankle and upper leg are ribbed, then the leg warmer cuff is knitted with a fun fur and 4 ply wool knitted together.  It will be after the holidays before I get the pattern written up, but thought you might like to see it anyway.

felted slipper with leg warmer cuff

The leg warmer section can be as long as you like.  I’ve already decided I will make this section about 12 inches, so I can pull it up when things get really cold; otherwise it just stacks neatly on the top of the foot.

felted slipper with leg warmer cuf 2 f

As you can see in the photo, I used two colors in the felted area, while using two strands of black in the sole.

Below is a peek at the felted section before the knitted upper toe and instep area was attached.

felted slipper before upper toe attached

I felted this by hand, leaving the circle needle cords in the finishing stitches.

It was a fun project.

KT

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Last night I finished my newly designed Moccasin slipper, and I was anxious to share it with you, so I have uploaded the pictures below.  I hope you like the design.

As I mentioned in the last couple of posts, this project was constructed using the Twine knitting technique  and shaped with short rows.

Here is a closer look at the upper toe section of the pattern.  I have  knitted a casing around the back and sides, which aligns with the casing I designed in the instep flap.   A 24 inch crocheted chain of both colors cinches the Moccasin in for a perfect fit.

The slipper on the right was my original pattern.  It is enough to say that I am pleased with the results of my labors.  I will be ordering the yarn for the second one, as this creation was done out of  my stash (my play around yarn).  I am planning on knitting snowflake knee socks to match.  I might even put them together.  Where I live it gets cold in the winter, and a extra Thermo layer would be nice.

As you can see the side chain, which can be done with a crochet hook or can be stitch as a embroidery chain stitch, pulls it all together.

This has been a fun project.

Happy knitting,

KT

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I was looking over the clicks on my site the other day and noticed that the interest in what to do with leftover yarns was among the most frequent inquiries.  This got me to thinking- Oh God, look out, she’s at it again!!!!

But……seriously, it is a challenge when there’s not really enough to make anything worth while, but you don’t want to waste it.  For me, of course, it can be incorporated into my Needle Point knitting projects, but for others, that don’t care for that intensive color work, it can be a problem.

Needless to say, that within minutes of becoming aware of the issue, I happened to look down on my desk and wouldn’t you know it, there was the Double Knit Felted Chess board swatch I had made.  It was the perfect size for a coaster.

I believe this project would be a great way to use up your “wool” sock yarn.   Using  harmonizing colors, they would make a great gift.  The complete instructions for this project are included in my Felted Double Knit Chess board which you can upload from the pattern catalog page.  Download the coaster chart below.

Here is the chart Felted Coaster Pattern

Happy Knitting – KT

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I recently shared with you plans for my “Idaho Memories” double knit afghan, and as I was writing up the pattern this week,  I decided that I might offer you some of the charts.  All of them can be used for other projects as well.  Simply changing the yarn weight, will size them down or up as all the charts are designed specifically for knitting.  These specific charts are gauged for 6 spi,(stitches per inch) and 9 rpi (rows per inch), and 6 spi and 8 rpi.  Why the second set?  I don’t know about you, but when I double knit my row count is less.  So  I offer you both sets of charts.

Do your swatch then pick your chart.

These blocks can also be made into pillows, and knitted with Fair Isle or  Armenian knitting methods.

I apologize for the picture, but I was not able to load a larger version.  You can click on it and save it, or use your “snipping tool” to make a copy then enlarge it on your computer.

Anyway…………..,  I was just thinking that you might like to have some of these charts to make your own afghan or a pillow for that someone special for Christmas.  I have created a PDF file of some of the charts for you to download.  Enjoy!!

Memories Afghan Moffit Charts – 6 by 9

Memories Afghan – 6 by 8 charts

Yarns estimates – 15 skeins of sports yarn for each color

Size #4 circle needle  ( 6sts per inch)

Have fun-

Knit-tweaker

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For  about a year I have been mentally trying to put together my ideas for an Afgan that would depict some of my fondest memories of living here in Idaho.  It would, of course, have to include the wildlife, Christmas in the snow with the grand kids, and scenes of our beautiful surroundings.  All these thoughts came together this past week, and I spent 3 days drawing the picture motifs, using Pattern Maker ( a cross stitch software program); by the way, this program works great for charting knitting, too.

My building block for this project was a 12 inch motif framed with maple leaves (from the tree in our front yard).  From that point on it was simple a matter of inserting my picture ideas into the center of the block, and saving each block into a separate file.  Below is a picture of a portion of the Afgan chart.

This Afgan with be 5 blocks across and 6 blocks long, giving me nice size reversible double knit blanket, in cream and burgundy.  Now all I have to do is knit a swatch, calculate the yarn required per stitch and I am on my way.

So…… why did I post this?  Just sharing an idea, hoping it might spur someone to do a similar project.  Hummmm….. what do  you think?

Here is a PDF file of the final digital results – Idaho Memories Afghan

Do check out Pattern Maker, and if you are interesting in doing a project like this, I will be happy to help you get started.

I estimated the yarn requirements at 15 skeins of sports yarn for each color on a number 4 needle (6 sts per inch).

Knit-tweaker

PS. For you experienced “charters”  this is just a pictorial chart of the desired results, my knitting charts are set up to match the gauge.  I also do this with Pattern Maker.

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As I was working on my new design for a felted Chess Board, I decided to experiment on some tension issues.  Being that the felted project did not require a perfect tension, I decided this was the perfect time to try to examine different way to hold the yarn.  Now, up front, I will tell you that I have a hard time with my left hand as I am loosing the sensitivity I once had to control the yarn.  In the past I have been able to maintain even tension in my knitting simply by making one wrap around my little figure.  It worked for my single knitting, stranded knitting with both hands, and double knitting.  Now, however, it isn’t working as well, and I knew I would have to come up with something more reliable.

Below is a picture of what happened when I used my old system.

You can see the contrast between the tight and loose rows.  This causes what I call, the “wave” affect.  It is not very attractive, to say the least.

The second picture is the result of one extra wrap around the little figure of my left hand.  The tension is more even, and I feel that I am heading in the right direction.  Will it ever be perfect?  Probably not. Ugh!   But…. then, I’m not a machine.

Coming Soon!

Here is a picture of the large version of my felted/ fulled Chess Board

This board was knitted  using Patton’s Classic Wool.  It finishes to about 20 by 20.

The sample at the top with the two shades of blue will full /felt to about one inch squares, yielding a board that will be between 11-12 inches square.- perfect for small Chess sets.

The pattern will include a detailed chart, and instructions.

Here is a sample of the chart.

Check back if you are interested.  I will be putting it on the shelf in my Etsy store soon.

Knit-tweaker

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While dinking around with a DK(double knitting) swatch, I finally worked out a “no twist” yarn edge closure that even I can do.  Now, I will say right off that it is not a new discovery, for I am sure someone has done it.  However, after reading and watching some of the offerings on this subject, I was a bit confused.  So… I decided, that either my ears were plugged, or my brain wasn’t functioning on full tilt when I investigated the subject.

Now, that said, here is what I have to offer.

After you have your set up row in place. tie the CC(contrast color) on loosely.

Row 1. ONLY– Slip the first stitch of the DK pair knitwise.  Bring both yarns to the front. Placing the MC (main color)yarn from the first knit stitch over the yarn(contrast color) of the purl.  Lift the CC yarn, while holding the MC yarn firmly to the left.  Purl the second Stitch of the DK pair with the CC.  Bring both yarns to back.  Continue across the row, working DK pairs till you have one DK pair left.  Knit the first stitch of the pair with MC.

Drop the yarn behind your work (the green one).

  

Pick up purl yarn (CC)and bring it to the left, under the tip of the needle and to the front.

 

Purl the last st.  Turn.

You can now see the captured yarn underneath the white bar.

Row 2–  With yarn in back, slip the first stitch knitwise.  Bring yarn to front and lay it over the needle to the right. Stick tip of right needle into purl st to left. See below.

Pick up yarn CC (contrast color)and purl the stitch.  Move yarn(green) to back.  Move MC(main color) to back.  Now you are set up to work across DK pairs.  Work all pairs to last pair.  Knit first stitch of last pair, drop yarn in back as before.  Pick up CC yarn, bring to left, underneath the needle, and forward.  Purl the last stitch.  Turn.

Row 3– Slip the first stitch knitwise, as before.  Repeat the beginning and ending procedure as for Row 2  throughout your project.  It works for me.  Maybe it will work for you.

 This make a nice slip stitch chain up the side, and secures the CC without any twisting or turning tricks.

OK, here’s the MORE part!

For the last few days I have been trying to figure out how to make a solid color band around a double knitted picture.  However that required that I have the same color yarn on both sides of the bottom, top and side edges of my project.  The bottom and top portions were no problem, as it only takes a separate strand of MC to be worked with the MC working yarn to produce the double sided solid frame of the same color.  The problem was how to connect the picture portion using two different colors to the frame edge stitches.  This method is also helpful if you don’t want all those different colors running down the trench between the two sides, causing extra unwanted bulk.

The problem was solved when I began to think, INTARSIA!   I realized that I could combine any amount of colors if I began to handle them as an Intarsia pattern.  The only difference is that I will be working both sides of the picture at the same time.  So… here’s the fix!

Here’s another of the “more” tips-

Double Knit Tension Problems

Most of the tension problems with DK seem to center around the “purl” stitch being to loose on the backside.  Practice definitely helps, but I’ve discovered that sometimes it take a bit of playing around with how your hold your yarn to tension it.  For me, (since I purl with my left hand and knit with my right hand) that means double wrapping the yarn around the little finger on my left hand.  This seems to keep my purl sitiches much firmer, and evens out my overall tension.  You might give this a try if you find you are having the same problem.

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While starting my new Double Knitting project, I decided to try a new cast on method.  In the picture below you will see my two color cast on. Each color was put on by itself, producing an alternating colored edge.  I think it looks pretty cool.

How to do it.  Using the yarn and needles required  for your project, calculate the yarn length for your long tail cast on by making a slip knot, then casting on 10 sts.  Now tie a loop at the end of both pieces of yarn.  See  picture below.

Carefully undo the 10 cast on sts, leaving the original slip st on needle.  Now measure the ( A)  long tail side.

Then measure the ( B)  working yarn side (the one attached to the ball of yarn).

Here you see that the length is about 7 1/2 inches, but I will round it up to 8 inches.  Having determined how much yarn you need for 10 sts,you now can divide the number of cast on stitches required by 10 and multiply it times  the length just measured, then add about 6 inches extra.  

*You may notice that the measurements are about the same.  But don’t be fooled.  That is NOT always the case.  It is important that you write down the numbers.  On my current project, using size 10 1/2 needles, the B (working yarn) was about 1/3 more in length than the A (long tail).

Once you have determined the length of the long tail (A), peel off that length of  yarn for one color then make a slip knot.  STOP!!!!  Before you go any farther, make a loose knot in A.  You’ll thank me later.

Measuring again from the slip knot onward toward the ball of yarn, measure off the length of B.  Break the yarn.  Repeat this process with the other color, placing the slip knot infront of the first one.  Now, with both slip knots on the needle, lay out your B’s (long tails, the one’s you marked- I hope) to your left, and the A’s straight ahead.  Now you are ready to cast on.

In the video below, I will show you the move.  Try it!

Once you are finisned casting your stitches on, just spit slice your working yarn on to the ends left and start knitting your double knit pattern.

You might also like to try this decorative cast on for a Fair Isle project.

Enjoy!!

Knit-tweaker

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