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Double Knitting with Yarns in One Hand

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged color changes, double knitting, yarn on March 3, 2014| Leave a Comment »

While double knitting the toe and heel on my Nordic Rose stockings, I decided to try holding the yarns in one hand. Why? Because, all methods so far, have always yielded an occasional uneven stitch. I don’t like that. 😦 There are instructions on the net for holding the yarns separated on one hand, but for me it was very awkward.

After thinking about this problem for a while, I started really paying attention to how the yarns lay in my right hand, and I discovered that if I made sure that my main color(black) for the knit stitch was to the left of the alternate color on my right index finger(or on top), I was able to move right along, smooth transitioning from knit to purl, while maintaining an even stitch tension.

Below are some photos of the process I used.

In the photo above I have just slipped the knit and purl of the short row of my heel, and am preparing to work on the right side row.

Since black is my main color, I made sure when I picked up the yarns with my right hand that black was to the left of the red, or on top.

You can see in this photo that I am picking off the black for the first stitch.

Now that the knit stitch is completed, both yarns have been moved to the front in preparation for the purl stitch in red.

To pick off the red yarn to complete the purl stitch, the right needle tip passed between the two yarns, as my right hand move to the left to wrap it on the needle to complete the purl stitch.

The purl stitch is now completed. Once done, both yarn are moved to the back, between the needles.

Also- I decided rather than working with the balls of yarn in each pocket of my stranded knitting bag (see free pattern page for upload), I opted for single strands about 2 yards long. Why? It makes it easier to refresh your yarn position in the right hand (English), or left(Continental).

When your strands are not attached to their respective balls, they get less tangled, and it only takes a few seconds to pull out a single strand to straighten everything out. Then the strands get down to about a foot left, I simply “spit” splice on another addition.

*Note- the one thing I noticed when using the “one handed” method is that you need to make sure that the yarn from your knit stitch (MC) is laying over the purl yarn when they are swung to the back in preparation for another set of stitches. If not, then you caught the MC when you attempted the purl stitch. The solution-take it out and do it over. I have done this many times. Now I quickly glance at the yarn position before I move on.

Hope this is of some help.

PS-thought I would upload the photo of my results.

Quite often when knitting double knitting with two hands, every other row is tighter, resulting in ridges in your knitting. To me, the method above seems to bring a much better result.

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Just for Fun!

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged Armenian Knitting, color changes, colors, colorworks tips, fair isle, floats, nordic knitting, socks on March 2, 2014| 3 Comments »

As I was working on my second Nordic Rose stocking I decided to experiment with some Armenian knitting in the sole area. Below are the results.

The first picture is of the area I constructed by “stacking the floats.” What’s that? I make sure that I weave the alternate yarn in at the same place( vertically) every round. The result is a ridge of stacked stitches that are slightly raised above the stitches on either side.

As you can see the ridges are quite visible. Now, this could be a problem if you want a smooth finish, but it could also be used to form a ridged textured fabric if so desired.

The second method, or alternate floats, give you a much more even texture. This requires that you recognize how to set up the first stitch of the round to off set the floats. I will see if I can draw up an illustration soon, but for now, the results are in the photo below.

You can see in this (not quite so clear) photo that it is much smoother than the one above. The alternate floats eliminate the ridges.

Now compare the above methods with using Fair Isle with long floats. Not as sturdy, but definitely the smoothest.

Why did I use Armenian knitting on the sole? Simple. It makes a very sturdy fabric. It provides a way for you to construct your socks so that the areas that have the most wear are reinforced.

Just passing this on-

Happy Knitting!

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Re-positioning Needles II

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged circle needle, color changes, fair isle, nordic knitting, re-arranging needles, stitches, yarn on February 20, 2014| Leave a Comment »

This is actually post script to my last post as I realized that it might be advantageous for me to share my” re-arranging the needles” ritual.

1) Leave yarns lying between the needles.

2) Pull right needle through, allowing stitches to rest on cord.

3) Select point of needle exit, usually between the 12-13 stitch, or where the stitches change colors. Pinch needle together to form a small loop between the stitches.

4) Pull the right leg of the cord through to form a loop. Release it. Pull you needle back to the right to allow the chosen stitches to rest on the needle. Turn work counter clockwise.

5) Next, bring both yarn over the top and to the back of the right needle, so they are out of the way.

6) Now it is time to adjust the left needle. As it is already resting on the cord, select the section of the pattern you want to work on, then pinch the cord together at this point and gently pull the cord through to form a loop.

7) As before, you will pull the metal part of the needle through to the left, so that the chosen stitches now rest on the working part of the left needle.

8) Gently push your stitches on both needles into the “go” position.

Now you are on your way again.

This is my ritual, I am sure you all have your own. I hope it helps!

One more thing- I always turn my work clockwise.

Happy knitting!

PS- I uploaded a practice chart on my last post for you to work with.

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Fair Isle -Short or Long Floats?

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged circle needle, color changes, colors, colorworks tips, fair isle, knitting, knitting charts, nordic knitting, pattern, socks, stitches on February 18, 2014| Leave a Comment »

While working on my Nordic Rose stocking I did a little experimenting. Why? The pattern for this stocking has large areas of one color, and kind of stretches the Fair Isle method to its limits. How to handle this problem became my challenge.

The first chart section I constructed using the Fair Isle method with short floats, say at least every 3/4 inch, and established breaks on my one circle needle for NA(needle A-front) and NB(back).

The second portion of the chart I changed my needle positions to suit the pattern, allowing me to work across the design portion without any ladders to worry about. I also did not weave in my alternate yarn color as before. The results were stunning.

The upper section of the above photo was done in the second method, repositioning the needles as I worked around the chart. Of course, another benefit of this method is that you yarns don’t get tangled as they remained in the same place all the time(black on the right, red on the left).

The lower section of the example where the floats were kept shorter, shows slight dimples( see photo below)in the surface. This happens no matter how loose you leave the float.

If you use the second method and leave your float too loose, the stitches at the opposite ends of any section of the color can loosen and affect your gauge.

The remedy-

By securing or capturing the alternate yarn at the change of the new color, and then again one stitch before the change at the other end, the float will stay in its proper place. To make the capture of the alternate yarn on the far end of the float smooth, first stretch out the stitches to the right, then bring your yarn(black) firmly across the expanse-

1) wrap as to knit,

2)wrap main color(red) as to knit

3)unwrap alternate color(black)

4)complete stitch with main color (red).

The next stitch will be the new color (black). Now the float will stay in place and lay horizontally(with no discernible dip) across the back of the red stitches. I always tip the work forward to check the tension of the float before proceeding to the next section. I make sure that everything stretches out equally. Taking the time to do this will save you lots of headaches later.

You will notice that the diamond above is very smooth. The long floats on the inside that I deem might pose a problem when sliding on the stocking will be tacked down with a needle and one ply of the background yarn ( in this case, red).

The process of moving the needles as I go has eliminated the need to deal with the “ladders” of circle needle knitting. One thing that makes this easy is that this pattern always has a center back pattern, and the last stitch of the round completes the right side border of this section. This lets me know where the round starts without using a marker.

Below is a photo of a new needle position, as I retain about 10-12 stitches on my right needle, and prepare the left one to knit across the rose diamond section.

It works for me! Give it a try. Below is a practice chart for you to try.

Nordic Rose float Practice Chart

Of course, I could do this pattern in Intarsia, as the center back stitches make an excellent point for a turn around. Hummmmm????

Happy knitting!

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Nordic Rose Knee Highs

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged 2 by 2 tubular cast on, circle needle, color changes, fair isle on February 6, 2014| 2 Comments »

I just finished the first sock of my new pattern. I had originally planned to make the field black and do the roses in red, but these old eyes just couldn’t handle the dark background, so I opted instead to reverse the colors. I like it.

This knee high pattern consists of tubular 2 by 2 cast on, fair isle knit pattern on leg and instep and a double knit heel and toe. I also retained the center stitch down the back, sole and toe. Below is a close up of the right side toe cap. You can see how the reverse center stitches come round to meet the top, where the unit is joined together with the Kitchener stitch.

Here is the wrong side view.

Here is the inside of the heel.

This was definitely an interesting knit. I am at present completing the pattern instructions and will be uploading them soon. The pattern will include several design options for the toe and heel.

The one thing that stood out to me was the necessity to break you yarns at the conclusion of the last round before setting up for the heel, and toe.

The above photo shows the center stitches I have set up to begin my DK heel. The black stitch border, just to the right of the center stitches is the last stitch of the round. Here is where I broke off my yarns, leaving a 6 inch tail to weave in later. I begin the DK set using 2 new yarns and #1 circular needle( which is 2 sizes smaller than the #3’s I used for the main stocking). These new strands will complete the instep when the heel is finished, and move right on to the toe section, where the process is repeated again.

Why? As most patterns have to do a partial round to set up your heel, this method allows you to keep the rounds even, as you will be centering your heel on the sole stitches and when finished you will be able to move right on to the next round of the instep as if you never stopped. It also doesn’t off set your center stitches as the last round is totally completed. You can also opt for any pattern you like on the sole-I simply used the leg chart.

It’s been fun!

Happy Knitting!

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Clean Color Transitions on Circle Needles

While I was working on my latest sock design, I began to pay particular attention to my color change where NA(needle A) and NB (needle B) meet as I start a new round. Normally, I make this back seam design lie in the center of NA, but this time I decided to put it at the beginning of the round. Why? Since these few stitches involve changing colors more often, it forms a firmer, less stretchy surface; therefore it is a great place to hide and secure any loose floats that happen to be hanging around. By working your extra yarn across to this area, from either side, you can tuck them under and stitch them down, with no one the wiser.

Below is a photo of the area in question.

You will notice that there are 5 red stitches between 2 black ones, this is the center back pattern of my Nordic Rose knee high. These stitches are riding on NA. NB is laying on the counter to the right, with its cord pulled across the surface of the knitting to the left. You can see how this move frees up the stitches to lie closely together, just as if you would be working on a straight needle. However, there is another move that is just as important, freeing the stitches at the other end of needle A to ride on the needle tip. See photo below.

You can see that I have pushed the stitches onto the needle tip so that they might ride smoothly on the needle itself and NOT on the cord. With these two moves completed, I can make a smooth transition when starting my next round, eliminating any loose stitch at the beginning.

I use the same procedure when I make the transition from NA to NB in the middle of the chart.

Give it a try!

Happy knitting!

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Yarn Over or Yarn Around Needle?

Posted in Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged knitting, lace, yarn, yarn around needle, yarn overs on January 16, 2014| 1 Comment »

One of my discoveries in dealing with the “yarn over” issue is the uneven holes that are created by the traditional method. If you are working in a lace pattern, it is not hard to see that the YO purls are a bit larger. Why, because they are really “not” a yarn over, they are in fact a “yarn around needle,” creating a full loop.

Since I am a bit picky about my knitting, I tried some experiments. The easiest answer, was to mirror the traditional yarn over. Yep, that fixed the problem. From that point on, when instructed to make a YO purl, I bought my yarn to the back, and purled the next stitch. Now, my holes in the lace pattern were the same.

Next, I experimented with the “yarn around ” needle. It works just as well. The key is to have the lengths of yarns creating the yarn overs, or around needle, the same.

I use the “yarn around needle” to increase stitches. It makes a very nice transition.

Below are some demos illustrating both methods on the knit side. For the purl side you would just reverse the process.

This first demo shows the yarn being brought forward in preparation to accomplish the , YO(yarn over) knit. This is the traditional method, but actually creates a half loop between the two stitches.

The second demo illustrates creating a yarn around needle by bringing the yarn over the top of the needle and then again to the back in preparation to knit the next stitch. This method make a complete circle around the needle, creating a full stitch, or loop.

Either way, I get the best results by doing a swatch of each type of yarn over before getting into a complicate piece of work. The goal is always to make you stitches look even.

Hope this helps.

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Double Knit Nordic Short Row Heel

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged crocheted chains, double knitting, double-knit design, short rows, socks on January 8, 2014| 2 Comments »

After completing the Nordic socks, I ventured to come up with a double knit heel to replace the two I knitted in the original design. Below is a photo of the results.

I began this heel “test” with a provisional crocheted chain of waste yarn, ( as I do all my experiments),then picked up 37 sts using the MC, then set up my double knitting row. Setting aside the 5 stitches in the center, I worked a alternate checker board design for the rest of the heel.

I treated the short rows the same as I would if I were working with a single thread, except for the fact that I brought both yarns to the back when slipping the front knit stitch, and both yarns to the front, before slipping the back purl stitch.

Below is a photo of the inside.

Here is a photo of the completed turns.

Both sides are completely finished and ready to complete the rest of the sock. You can also use this method to make you toe section.

I closed the short rows in the same manner as I use in J’ Short Row Heel instructions, using the appropriate color to retain the design. The only difference is that you will be working one side at a time. After completing the knit side closure, I bring the yarn to the front, then turn the work around. With the left needle tip, I pick up the slipped st in the row below the stitch to the right of the slipped st, place it on the needle, then turn the work again back to my original knitting position, then purl the two stitches together. The rest is the same.

I have charted this design, you can upload to practice with in the near future, but for now, it’s something you might think about trying. The instructional PDF includes several charts for you to choose from. I have also included some illustrations.

Double Knit Short Row Nordic Heel

I definitely will be using this in my next knee high stocking design, and my husbands socks as well.

Happy knitting !!!

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From Needles to Tooties!

Posted in knitting embellishments, Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged circle needle, colorworks tips, crocheted elastic, double-knit design, nordic knitting, socks on January 8, 2014| Leave a Comment »

Well, they are finally off the needles and covering my “tooties.”

I thought I might let you in on my secret of keeping them UP!

I have found that elastic thread crocheted to the inside of the top of the rib does a good job. You might also notice, if you take the time to look at some of the commercial socks, they also use this method.

It is really easy to do. Using a small crochet hook, make a slip knot in the elastic thread leaving about 6 inches for a tail. I begin my crocheting about 2 sts down from the top edge. I use the knit 2 sequence of the rib to anchor the crocheted chain, then chain 2 between the sections of the rib. Slip stitch you elastic into the right leg of the first selected knit stitch, then slip stitch into the left leg of the knit stitch directly to the left. The next step is to chain 2(which take care of the purl 2 section), then repeat the 2 slip stitches as before in the next group of knit 2’s to your left. The tension you use to hold back on the elastic thread will determine how tight it is, so be gentle. When you have completed the round, leave a 6 inch tail and pull the elastic through the last slip stitch.

DO NOT TIE IT OFF.

Put the stocking on, and see how it works. If you need to tighten it a bit, then simply release the elastic, pull it out and tighten your tension a bit more.

You can work 1-3 rounds of this elastic chain, spacing the chains about 2-3 stitches apart. I made my second round 3 stitches below the first round.

They worked for me.

Give it a try!

Here is a photo of these knee highs paired with my Twine knitted moccasin.

Happy knitting!!!

Oh! Be sure to check out the pattern charts I uploaded for you in my last post. Check out “Nordic Boot Sock Ideas.”

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Cozy Heel/Toe Nordic Sox II Illustration

Posted in Knitting Projects, Knitting Tutorials, Uncategorized, tagged circle needle, double-knit design, knitting, nordic knitting on January 4, 2014| Leave a Comment »

As I was working on the second sock I decided to take some photos of the double heel set-up.

First, let me say that I have discovered that using a needle at least two sizes smaller for setting up double knitting, gives a much smooth transition than doing it with the needles designated for the field. So…, since I am using a #3 for the main knit, I will be using a #1 when setting up the double knit for the heel.

Double Knit Set-up

Using my #1, I knitted the first stitch with the MC, leaving it on the needle, I brought both the yarns(MC and CC) through to the front; with the CC I purled into the same stitch. To repeat, bring both yarns to the back, then knit the next stitch with the MC. Bring both yarns front, and purl in the same stitch. Work all the heel stitches this way. You should have twice the amount of heel stitches on your needle. The next step is to pull the #1 through all the way so that the stitches are now on the right end tip of the circle needle. This puts them in position to be slipped off onto the two tips of the #0 needle.

Pick up a #0 circle needle. Fold your #0 in half so that both ends face the same direction.

You can see that I have positioned the tips between the thumb and index finger of my right hand.

By rocking my wrist forward and backward, I pick up the MC from back to front, with the nearest needle, the CC stitch is picked up in the same manner, with the farthest needle. The trick is to keep your right hand thumb on the stitches just picked off.

You can see in the photo above how it looks as you progress across the row.

Once you have them divided onto the two points of the needle, it is time to set up for knitting the MC heel on my #3’s. To do this just turn the needles around so that the working yarn is on you right. Now pull the #0 needle holding your CC through, so that the stitches ride on the cord.

*Note- you will find that knitting off the #o holder, leaves you ample room for the larger needle and makes a smooth transition.

Next, pick up the #3, slip the first stitch, and purl across, beginning your short row heel. Once the #0 is released from this row, pull it through so both side hang out evenly. I actually tie a loose knot in the coil and let it hang. This needle serves as a stitch holder for the CC stitches of the inside heel.

Complete the MC short row heel, ending on a knit row. Why? This will set up our working yarn in the proper order to complete the round that was interrupted when the heel was begun.

After transferring the finished MC heel stitches onto a spare #1 or #0, beginning at the right edge, with the purl side of the MC heel facing you; with #0 needle, pick up the stitches for the inside CC heel.

Here you can see the stockinette stitches of the inside CC heel. Beginning in the knit side, complete the short row heel, ending with a purl row. Now both working yarns are in position to complete the original round.

Below are some photos of the completed heels.

You will notice that the purl sides oppose each other.

Once the two heals are completed, line up the short row turns as shown in the photo, and loosely stitch them together, weaving in the ends of your yarn. I have found that using a piece of the MC works best. Now turn the heels inside each other, both sides should be in stockinette. Slip the stitches alternately back onto your the right tip of your #3 needle. Pull the cord through, in preparation to complete the original round. The heel stitches riding on the cord should in the same order as in the first photo in this post. Now complete you chosen chart for the instep section.

When you come to the heel portion with the two colors, knit the MC and CC together with the MC. At the same time you will be weaving in the CC behind every other stitch.

From this point on you just complete the charts you have chosen for the instep and sole section until you get to the toe. Repeat the process as for the heel on the amount of chosen stitches. Join the two together, and Kitchener stitch the remaining stitches to the matching sole stitches.

* I interlock the first and last two stitches, before I start my Kitchener in order to eliminate the bulk at the beginning and end. Using 2 #0 DP needles makes this process much easier. Click on the link to “Techknitter” for instructions.

Here are some additional ideas and instructions. Nordic Boot Sock Ideas

Chart tips-For this and any other project requiring a chart I have found that “whiteout tape” you can get at Staple or stationary supply, works great for keeping track of where you are.

It peels off easily and can be moved up the chart as required. You will notice in this photo that I also have used it to mark the out the section for the heel. As you can see it great for any application where you need to mark your progress.

Happy knitting!

PS- You can find the original version of these stockings at Knitting Daily.

*The original stocking, uses a Shepherds heel. It works well, but I prefer the short row version.

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Creative Knitting – Beyond Knit and Purl

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Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Double Knitting with Yarns in One Hand

Just for Fun!

Re-positioning Needles II

Fair Isle -Short or Long Floats?

Nordic Rose Knee Highs

Clean Color Transitions on Circle Needles

Yarn Over or Yarn Around Needle?

Double Knit Nordic Short Row Heel

From Needles to Tooties!

Cozy Heel/Toe Nordic Sox II Illustration

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J’s No-wrap Shortrow Heels and Toes